Build Your Own Go Kart Chassis
Building the go-kart of your dreams doesn’t take much more than a welder, some steel, and some time. Whether you’re looking for a weekend hobby or a way to make extra money, the resources you need to build a go-kart are available online.
Do you ride this go-kart for fun? What is this, a pastime? So that we can race? Or perhaps it’s the next thing you and your son or daughter will tackle in the garage. Don’t limit your imagination; design the perfect go-kart for your needs.
A go-kart can be fun for various purposes, including cruising around the yard, racing friends at the track, and spending quality time with a child. It can be as straightforward or as complicated as you like; the important thing is that you enjoy doing it! Adjustments and modifications may be required because no plan is foolproof.
Remember that you can always put your spin on a premade plan. They look complicated to construct, but they’re not too difficult. It’ll be a fun activity for everyone in your circle of friends and family. You’ll get to spend a ton of quality time together as a team while also achieving a common goal.
Building A Go Kart Builds Responsibility And Dedication
Get your hands dirty and construct your go-kart if you’re the type who enjoys putting things together. Get all of your replacement pieces after researching the best prices. Visiting a local auto repair shop is an excellent alternative to purchasing your toolset. It’s pricey, but it saves a lot of time.
The background noise won’t be an issue for you and the mess that often results from repairing your parts, nor will your neighbors. Finding a dedicated space is essential for your endeavor. The area needs to be clean, well-lit, and concrete-floored. Since you’ll spend the next three to six months working on this, it makes sense to do so in your garage.
A self-assembled go-kart sounds like much work. Are you sure you’re up to it? Let’s get the necessary replacement elements ready right away.
Equipment and Supplies:
- Welding equipment, Forney 190 MP (item 324).
- MIG wire.030″ (STOCK# 42286)
- Square tubing, 1″ and 114″ (ITEM# 49531 and 49528)
- Dry saw
- Grinder, Angle
- Wheels for cutting and grinding (ITEM# 71819 and 71925)
- Magnets, strong (ITEM# 70715)
- clamps for cables (SKU# 70225)
- Marker for use in paint (SKU #60310)
- Helmet for Welding
- Eye protection
- Gloves for Welding
- Clothes that can withstand flames, such as a coat or an apron, or even just the sleeves
- Detailed blueprints for a go-kart (optional)
Protecting oneself is paramount when working with metal or welding. Wear protective gear, including a welding jacket or apron, gloves, safety glasses, and a helmet, whenever you weld. Arc flash and spark protection are a necessity.
- First, cut all parts to size. Get extra materials in case you make a mistake or need more steel. Use a paint marker to label each cut piece. Measure the project twice, and cut once when working on it. Cut the joint and shallow angles with a dry saw (45-degree and 22.5-degree angles).
Angle grinders are helpful for precise fitting at steep and complex angles. Cut all the parts to the correct lengths and arrange them with labels. Double-check your plans and materials. Before cutting the metal, scribe it—Angle-size before cutting. Magnets can align with metal and angels.
- Make sure everything is organized and labeled. The go karts frame is the most accessible component to assemble first. To save time, predrilled all the holes specified in the plans, focusing on the areas that would be more difficult to access after the pieces had been welded.
Plans will reveal where to drill for the car’s brake, gas pedals, and seats, and after you have prepared the pilot holes, tack weld the pieces together.
- It would be best if you built the chassis on the flattest, most even surface you can find. This will aid in making specific the chassis is square and level. Check for metal burrs on the ends of the metal if you find that your pieces don’t fit flush together. These are inevitable after cutting, but they are also simple to remove with a grinder.
- Set your machine to the metal’s recommended settings. In manual 2T mode, our Forney 190 MP had 45 amps and 18.9 volts. Weld tacks first. Tack welds can be ground off if a mistake is made. Once your pieces are square, secure them with complete welds.
Measure twice if something doesn’t fit. Don’t weld too long in one spot to prevent warping. Use a square or carpenter’s square to line up angels.
- Build the rear subframe base after welding the main frame. This frame holds the axle and engine. Tack-weld first, then fill. Start making the rear subframe axle supports, then add the angled tubing for the rear axle brackets. Tack-welded the axle supports flat, then tilted them and built the frame around them.
- Next, tack-welded the front and rear uprights to the main frame. Some tack welding was done on the top rails at the front and back. It took two people to manage the compound-angle side rails. While holding the metal steady, cutting the angles by hand takes two people. Finish with complete welds after tack welding.
- Next, tack-welded the front suspension block, 114” square steel. This front suspension block helped us set and adjust the top roll bar—finish welding.
- Next, assemble the rear and front roll bars. It starts by taking welding the rear roll bar assembly to the back top rail. We welded the front roll bar assembly to the suspension block—finish welding. To join the front and rear roll bars, we hand-scribed the angles.
The angle grinder was used to cut these as well. The side rails, roll bar, and dashboard have angled support pieces attached. The dashboard holds the wheel and any other controls.
- Next, tack-weld the front suspension block brackets. Weld the shock brace to the suspension block. This “W”-shaped piece holds the shocks.
- The frame should be mostly finished. Putting together the A-arms up front. The sum of the two arm sets was four; pair it up, then put a welded shock mount bracket for the lower arm. The upper front suspension block assembly had a matching shock mount bracket.
Dry fit the second arm to mimic the first. All ends must match.
- Attach pivot points to the rear subframe and mainframe. Mount shocks between the rear subframe and principal frame uprights. Go-karts now have baskets. This will help Mooney’s homestead, but it’s not necessary. Make it your own and add what you need.
Check the frame’s welds and grind them as needed. The go-kart’s chassis has those proportions. The blueprints for installing tires and motors are helpful. You get to decide how the wires are connected and how they look. We advise thinking things through and adhering to the manufacturer’s guidelines.
Fun Go Kart Building Can Lead to Serious Racing
Kart racing is increasingly seen as a training ground for aspiring young drivers. Karting gives these inexperienced drivers a taste of motor racing action. They also serve as training grounds for amateurs with aspirations of making it big in the professional racing world.
Many successful race car drivers started kart racing before moving on to higher levels of competition, like Formula One and NASCAR.
Who can say? Perhaps you or a friend or relative who helped you construct your go-kart was destined to become a speed monster.